Economy class daily rider. Repainted with spray paint. Cheap wheels. Original breaks with new lever. New pedals with cheap straps…what else….
Submitted by Steven
Street Beat Altal
Posted on March 31st 2010
Rate this bike
(34 votes, average: 5.24 )
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(34 votes, average: 5.24 ) Loading ...About
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17 Comments Received
March 31st, 2010 @3:00 pm
I dig that frame. Is that saddle comfortable like that?
March 31st, 2010 @3:05 pm
Yeah, I put my seats like that so only my butt is on the seat. That way there is no pressure or discomfort on my “special area”
In essence functioning similar to one of these: http://blog.michaelluan.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/seat1.jpg
March 31st, 2010 @6:50 pm
saddle does look odd.
March 31st, 2010 @8:26 pm
Nice. I like that you didn’t spray the head tube and chrome parts. I love center pull brakes. They’re a pain in the ass to work with, but once they’re good they have great stopping power. Great commuter.
March 31st, 2010 @9:29 pm
Attractive head tube and headbadge. If your chainwheel bolts on, perhaps you could take off the wheel not used to save weight and clean up the look.
March 31st, 2010 @9:32 pm
street beat is no beatstreet.
March 31st, 2010 @10:59 pm
Right you are WSB. Choose a chainring and ditch the unused, straighten that saddle, and this will be looking pretty darn sharp. Very classy budget build, probably one of the best.
April 1st, 2010 @7:02 am
I used to set-up my seat like that –thinking that the family jewels would be safer. I wonder if the frame is too small for him. The seat should be parallel with the top tube. Otherwise, great job.
April 1st, 2010 @7:40 am
@cs: They are a pain to work with…
I don’t know how to remove it because it is connected by rivets. I took it to a couple bikeshops but they were hesitant to try. Suggestions welcome
Also, the bike is a tad big for me, rather than too small.
April 6th, 2010 @6:59 pm
I agree.. nice paint job.
@JQ I know what you mean.
A lot of guys tend to do that when inexperienced with properly fitting and setting up their bike (I know I did). It is putting most of the weight and such on your wrist. If you arms get tired, numb, or ache… well, it’s the seat. level it out and try raising and lowering it a bit at a time to find that sweet spot. Also, on longer rides (anything more than a quick jaunt to the store) a squishy seat is more likely to put pressure on that nerve. It’s the sit bones that are suppose to support the majority of your weight and a squishy thing distributes it to all areas.
As for the brake… Keep it… If you REALLY want a new brake check the crown for a hole that would fit a regular road caliper and then just cut off the rivets. They are probably not in the right spot to be replaced with anything like a 990 brake anyways.
April 7th, 2010 @5:00 pm
Sort the saddle out. It just looks daft and uncomfortable. As for the extra chainring. Borrow a mates angle ginder. Take the heads off the rivetts and you should be able to punch the remainder out, If stuck, you may have to drill the rivetts. Half hour job, tops. p,s, Please sort that saddle out. My eyes are watering just looking at it.
April 7th, 2010 @6:06 pm
Ahh….. the tried and tested ‘take a grinder to it’ method gets suggested again eh Al?
I like the frame though- the chrome parts look great with the white. Even better you’ve kept the head badge on top of the chrome.
I’ve tried having my saddle like that, but kept getting numb hands cos of the pressure on the nerve. I do like the power you can get into pedalling when you’re leaning forward like that though
April 7th, 2010 @8:29 pm
Steven, in the close up of the Head badge and brake it is obvious the brake needs to be adjusted and snugged up. I have found that once it is close, take off one brake shoe and squeese the calipers against the rim while eyeballing the missing pad and tighten the 10 or 9 mm. screw where the cable passes thru the yoke. Put the pad back on the caliper and hopefully it will be close and the lever will have minimal travel before the brake engages. If it is too tight it is easier to let it up a bit than to pull it tighter. Grease lightly the cable so it slids nicely at the yoke. If it is an old cable and housing remove and grease the whole wire. I use grease but maybe light oil is better but rust is a problem with old steel and wire is cheap if you must replace.
April 7th, 2010 @8:38 pm
Hola again, is that a cottered crank? Not easy to get off! Takes a big vise and ingenuity. I have a Raleigh and it had two chainwheels also and rivetted. As I recall the 52 tooth ring was machined onto the crank. i.e. lose the 42 and you will change the ratio of your bike and need a longer chain and different cog. No longer economy but fun experience. Suggest 2nd bike while this one is in Labor.
May 6th, 2010 @7:45 pm
Hey everybody,
I just sold this bike to my brother last weekend… He’s taller than me and it fits him better. As for the chain ring, he’ll keep the two so he can switch ratios as he pleases…
I’m working on a gold Pake track frame right now. I’ll post pictures when its finished.
May 6th, 2010 @8:46 pm
Sounds good Steven. Can’t wait.
WSB: center pull brakes are a pain in the ass to tune as I’m sure you know but I worked on a friends and now they’re like brand new.
May 7th, 2010 @5:43 am
Center pulls also need the guide at the stem insertion into the headtube which limits choice of stem on some and the cable must come from on high also limiting the choice of lever. Did you put the brake on front of Grand Prix or sell it without. It must have come with center pull. My 85 marathon has side pull and work and feel the same as center pull. The V brake stops the fastest from my experience but the pads were also the newest and the most surface area on the alloy rim of a rebuilt Twenty done up by a Pro bike mechanic in Colorado.
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